1. As the founder of Robert Wan, how would you describe your entrepreneurial journey and the key milestones that allowed you to build a pearl empire in French Polynesia?
I began working with Tahitian pearls in 1973. At first, I knew very little about pearl cultivation, but over time, and above all through relentless work, it became a true passion. Each year, we hope for better quality and a better harvest. I call it a profession of hope. It hasn’t always been easy; there have been very difficult times, but I persevered with one primary goal: to offer high-quality pearls to the world.
Today, Tahitian pearls are recognized worldwide, although there are still barriers, customs regulations, geopolitical tensions, and market restrictions. We have worked with markets in Moscow, Brazil, Argentina, Mexico, the United States, and now China, which has become very important.
Pearl farming is unlike any other activity. You either love it or you don’t. If you love it, you constantly strive to improve quality. We face natural limitations: our pearls are cultivated in closed lagoons, not open bays. Food resources are limited, which affects the number of oysters we can grow. We cannot overproduce without harming the environment. We must therefore adapt patiently and with perseverance.
2. Tahitian pearls are now considered a national treasure. How did you help position them as a high-end, internationally recognized jewel?
First and foremost, through their beauty. Compared to other pearls, Tahitian pearls stand out for their color, their luster, and their uniqueness.
In the early days, Japan was crucial. The Japanese, already renowned for cultivating Akoya pearls, recognized and supported Tahitian pearls. From Japan, the market expanded to the United States, which became a major market, and then to China.
We also worked to establish our own brand identity. My ambition has always been for Robert Wan to stand alongside major luxury houses such as Cartier, Louis Vuitton, or Bulgari. But for that, quality must be impeccable. Every day, we work to improve cultivation, grafting techniques, and selection standards.
A major milestone was our collaboration in the 1970s with the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), which helped establish Tahitian pearls as an international jewel. This recognition elevated the pearl on the global luxury stage. We even created an educational component dedicated to pearls, helping professionals understand nacre thickness, luster, and overtone, key elements of quality.
I have also always placed great importance on promoting Tahitian pearls internationally. Through my brand, of course, which is now inseparable from the Tahitian pearl, but promoting the pearl also means promoting French Polynesia as a whole destination. I participated in the Basel Fair, for example, and most notably organized the very first Tahitian pearl auction in Hong Kong in 1998, which was a major turning point for the pearl’s recognition in the Asian market. That same year, I created the Robert WAN Pearl Museum in Tahiti, the only museum in the world dedicated to this jewel, so that tourists could discover the Tahitian pearl. Finally, I opened my first boutique in Shanghai in 2010.
All of this helped Tahitian pearls gain international recognition, particularly in China, which, as I mentioned, is now a major market.
3. Innovation has played a central role in your success. How have you evolved grafting techniques, pearl selection, and traceability standards?
Innovation begins with observation. Every day, we study the oysters, their behavior, and their development. There are techniques that we have refined over time to improve color, luster, and surface quality.
We are also working on better traceability by mapping pearls so their origin can be more precisely identified in the future. It is a complex process, but it reflects our commitment to transparency and excellence.
Pearl cultivation requires patience. It takes two years for a pearl to mature inside the oyster, and another two years for the oyster itself to develop. That means nearly four years to produce a single pearl. This long cycle demands discipline, passion, and attention to detail, values I have passed on to my children and grandchildren.
4. The global luxury market is constantly evolving. How do you respond to changing consumer expectations and international competition?
Consumers are more demanding than ever. Younger generations appreciate pearls differently, they prefer modern designs and accessible prices, while still seeking quality.
With our boutiques in Bora Bora, we see tourists from all over the world. We observe their tastes and adapt our jewelry accordingly. Competition pushes us to improve. Where there is competition, there is progress. Today, it is no longer just about selling a Tahitian pearl, it is about offering an experience, an immersion, expertise, and above all, a story.
Pearls are unique among gemstones because they are alive. Unlike diamonds or other stones extracted from the earth, pearls come from a living organism in the sea. They must be cultivated. This living origin gives them soul and authenticity.
5. Sustainability is at the heart of your operations. What measures are you taking to ensure responsible lagoon management?
A lagoon has its limits. If it can support one million oysters, you must not place two million. Overproduction pollutes the lagoon and destroys the ecosystem. We have seen lagoons deteriorate due to excessive farming. Once damaged, recovery is very difficult.
On our farms, we strictly control density and maintain water quality. Environmental management is essential not only for the ecosystem but also for the quality of the pearls. Without adequate nourishment, the nacre will neither be thick nor lustrous. Sustainability and excellence go hand in hand.
At present, we are investing heavily in hatchery systems, which both drastically reduce plastic emissions in the lagoon and prevent saturation. Ultimately, the lagoon will be entirely dedicated to cultivating oysters once they have been grafted.
6. Family transmission is vital in heritage businesses. What is your long-term vision for preserving Polynesian pearl expertise?
I pass on not only technical knowledge but also passion. My children and grandchildren are involved in the business. They study marketing and management, because knowing how to cultivate pearls is not enough, you also need to know how to sell them.
I have confidence in the next generation. Communication, education, and innovation are essential. The passion continues within the family.
7. Finally, what message would you like to share with Los Angeles Times readers about the Tahitian pearl as a symbol of excellence and sustainable refinement?
The pearl is eternal. It has existed since ancient times and will continue to exist and fascinate, but only if we maintain quality.
True quality lies in the thickness of the nacre, the luster, the richness of the color, and the time invested in cultivation. We carefully control quantity and environmental impact to preserve this Pacific treasure.
When demand exceeds supply, we do not compromise on standards. We protect the lagoon, the oyster, and the craftsmanship behind each pearl. That is how the Tahitian pearl remains a symbol of authenticity, excellence, and refined beauty, born of the sea, living, and timeless.
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