1. How do you scientifically harness the natural resources of French Polynesia, such as plants, monoï, and tamanu, in developing innovative cosmetic products?
Our company has existed since 1992, and about 15 years ago we established a dedicated research and development center. Its mission is to create new ingredients that can inspire the global cosmetics industry. Polynesia is incredibly rich in endemic biodiversity, around 60–70% of its natural reservoir is unique. We explore this potential through extensive plant research, developing two to three new projects each year to bring fresh ideas to major cosmetic brands.
2. Can you describe the role of the Laboratory in terms of research, formulation, and innovation?
We operate across two main activities. First, we formulate finished cosmetic products for high-end hotels and resorts, items used in guest rooms or spa treatments. Second, we develop raw ingredients. We take traditional Polynesian knowledge and validate it through clinical studies and active compound analysis. With the global shift toward natural products, our ingredients are increasingly relevant and widely used in modern formulations.
3. How do you reconcile ancestral Polynesian knowledge with international scientific and regulatory standards?
From a regulatory standpoint, we follow European standards, which are among the most stringent globally. This allows us to access most international markets. Our process begins with traditional uses, I personally work on sourcing plants and engaging with local farmers. From there, we identify the most promising plant parts and extraction methods, whether through maceration, like Tahitian honey, or solvent extraction, which isolates active compounds more precisely.
4. What are the most promising natural assets from Polynesian biodiversity today?
We currently offer around 40 to 45 ingredients, including plant oils, extracts, and exfoliants. While some exciting projects are still under development, Polynesia already benefits from strong global interest due to its uniqueness. One notable innovation we launched with Firmenich is a solid natural perfume derived from flowers, used, for example, in a recent Hermès eau de toilette. It reflects our ability to bridge tradition and high-end innovation.
5. How do you position Polynesian cosmetics internationally, particularly in the United States?
Polynesia has a powerful dream factor. Its remoteness and rich biodiversity create strong appeal. On the U.S. West Coast especially, there’s a sense of escapism associated with Polynesian products, people reconnect with the destination through scents, textures, and ingredients. We’ve collaborated in the past with brands like Bath & Body Works, which even launched a “Passport to Tahiti” concept. Naturalness is also key, our products are largely free from pollutants and derived from traditional cultivation methods.
6. Sustainability is central today. What initiatives ensure traceability, responsible sourcing, and ecosystem preservation?
Ethics and biodiversity are now fundamental. For example, our Tiare Tahiti flower supply chain has been certified for four years by the Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT). This ensures fair compensation across the value chain, from landowners to harvesters, and full traceability. We work closely with local communities, particularly on islands like Tahiti and Makemo, where this activity supports several families year-round.
7. How does your laboratory support short supply chains and local resource valorization?
We prioritize local sourcing entirely. Polynesia offers sufficient biodiversity, so we don’t need to import raw materials. We collaborate with 100–150 suppliers across 15 to 20 islands, working with a wide variety of plants, ferns, nuts, flowers, roots. Since 2018, we’ve implemented a strong CSR policy, with innovation as a core focus. Our goal is continuous development of new ingredients while supporting local economies.
8. In terms of innovation, are you working on new molecules or advanced formulations?
Absolutely. We’re transitioning from purely marketing-driven ingredients to more technical, science-based assets. We collaborate with international laboratories to identify and quantify active compounds. Current projects involve roots and ferns that show promising results and could soon lead to highly differentiated cosmetic ingredients on the global market.
9. What are the main challenges of operating from an island environment, and how do you address them?
Insularity presents several challenges. In R&D, we rely on international partnerships due to limited local infrastructure. In production, we’ve mitigated constraints by investing in scalable equipment. However, logistics remain a major hurdle, transporting goods by sea or air can be costly and sometimes restrict access to certain markets due to minimum volume requirements. This directly impacts competitiveness.
10. Finally, what message would you like to share with Los Angeles Times readers about Polynesian cosmetics?
Polynesian cosmetics sit at the intersection of nature, science, and sustainable luxury. Our ingredients are increasingly ethical and responsibly sourced, with strong social and environmental commitments. What truly sets us apart is sensoriality, the fragrances, textures, and emotional experience. Polynesia is not just a place; it’s a sensory journey. Our goal is to make consumers choose products not only for their effectiveness but because they genuinely enjoy using them.
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